Desde el visual merchandising, Vanesa Marchante es referente de la moda internacional, objetivo profesional que la deslumbraba cuando, aún adolescente, ingresó a la carrera de publicidad en su España natal. Con título en mano, descubrió nuevos trabajos y otros países a partir de su labor. Trabajó para grandes marcas como Diesel y Desigual y llegó a ser la encargada de la dirección de imagen de los locales comerciales de Inditex, una de las mayores compañías de distribución de moda en el mundo (que incluye a Zara, Massimo Dutti y otras siete marcas internacionales).

 

Por Sol Aguirre

¿De qué se trata tu trabajo, el visual merchandising?

―Es marketing visual en el punto de venta. Se trata de crear experiencias para el cliente, diseñando estrategias visuales y comerciales para aumentar las ventas, conectar con él, saber lo que busca y cómo hacer para que acceda a ello de la mejor manera. Además, obvio, soy amante de la moda y por eso también he tenido oportunidad de trabajar como asesora de imagen en producciones y desfiles.

A partir de tu trabajo, viajaste a diferentes lugares del mundo. ¿Cómo utilizaste esa experiencia internacional en tu visión sobre el diseño de la moda?

―De todos los países he tomado aprendizajes. Siempre utilizo en mi trabajo la identidad propia del país al momento de producir. Eso hace que tenga que estar actualizada continuamente porque dentro del visual merchandising hay tendencias de decoraciones, colores, estilos, que todo el tiempo cambian.

Ahora hay mucho minimalismo y líneas claras, por ejemplo, mientras antes se hacían escenografías de teatro. En la actualidad, se le da más importancia a la prenda, pero en la mayoría de los casos con maniquíes.

Considerando tu experiencia internacional, ¿qué análisis hacés sobre el protagonismo de Argentina y de Córdoba en particular en el ámbito de la moda?

―Argentina tiene un microclima y eso se ve en Córdoba. Le faltan bastantes años para llegar al nivel de interés por la moda que tiene Europa. La moda argentina tenía mucha relevancia internacionalmente en los 80 y los 90. Es un país que se ha cerrado por mucho tiempo por temas políticos y eso impactó en la moda. Pero en esto también influyó la globalización, que trajo un doble impacto: Argentina se quedó atrás y otros referentes internacionales del ámbito han ido evolucionando.

¿Cómo ves la producción local vinculada con la moda?

―Veo mucha producción propia, sobre todo en el diseño de calzado. En general, existe una moda bastante marcada, por ejemplo, con la ausencia de faldas, minifaldas, del oversize. Hay mucho uniforme en Córdoba y detrás de eso una preocupación por el qué dirán y un miedo a romper la estructura.

¿Qué opinás sobre el vínculo entre la mujer argentina y la moda?

―Me llama la atención que la mujer acá compite muchísimo. No digo que en el resto del mundo no sea así, pero acá se multiplica. La mujer se viste para otra mujer, en vez de hacerlo para una misma.

¿Y al vínculo entre el hombre argentino y la moda?

―La diferencia es que el hombre es más arriesgado: se viste para sí mismo, no para gustarle al otro. Eso lo hace más relajado. Caminando por Córdoba veo a hombres muy bien vestidos.

¿Qué es la moda para vos?

―La moda es diversión, hay que jugar con ella, no hay que tomársela muy en serio. Si te la tomás en serio, estás perdida. La moda es un viaje a la psicología de cada uno. Por eso, mi profesión es divertida. A su vez, me permite salir de la zona de confort.

Los infaltables de la nueva temporada:

  • Volados
  • Rayas
  • Cuadros Vichy
  • Looks monocromáticos
  • Vestidos camiseros
  • Metalizados

Instagram: @vane_marchante

Facebook: Vanesa Marchante Figueroa

 

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